Quick Tips and Insight Your Dog Would Like You To Read
Hes very lovable with us and other people he meets, hes good with people at the park but when we see another dog, even in the car, he pulls and starts barking like crazy even when the dog is gone. Hello Emily, I would suggest seeing if you can find a G. These classes can be great for quickly defusing aggression related to fear. When you are working with him on your own you might need to increase the amount of distance between him and the other dog so that he can respond still. Work on his obedience, especially a very focused "Heel" command and work on keeping his focus on you, moving him through his obedience rather quickly, and making lots of turns while heeling.
The idea is for the other dog just to be background noise and for his focus to stay on you so that he will become bored with the other dogs. You can reward him for obedience, calmness, and focus on you while you are doing this, but it is okay if he does not take the treat. I would highly suggest hiring a train who has access to a facility where you can practice training around other dogs with that trainer, or even better, attending a G. Both of those options will likely provide much quicker results because reactivity and aggression can take time to improve otherwise.
Another option is to work on up close interactions with other dogs while he is wearing a muzzle, but I would only suggest doing this under the guidance of a qualified trainer who is very experienced with aggression, because if it is done wrong it can it can make the aggression worse or create fear issues in the non-aggressive dog. It needs to be done in a certain way in order to be effective. My dog loves both people and dogs equally and can't hold a stay around them. Is there a way that the first method could be tweaked to help my dog stay calm? Hello Campbell, If you feel like Izzi cannot do the first method because of how excited she gets, then you can make that method a little easier by starting out by having your friend and her dog, who are helping you, walk back and forth past Izzi from a distance during thirty to forty-five minute training sessions.
While they are doing that, work on your girl's obedience commands, including her sit-stay and down-stay. Pay attention to how your dog does while your friend is at various distances. You want your friend to be close enough for your dog to notice them but far enough away that your dog can still obey your commands when you insist that she pay attention. When she is no longer excited about your friend and her dog from a distance, then gradually have them come up to her to greet her and stop or leave if she gets too excited like the method says.
By having them walk around first until she gets bored with them and starts to focus on you better while you are training her, you are taking some of the excitement out of their approach later on, since she has seen them before. Their approach will still be rewarding but just not as exciting. Another option is to practice with just the owner first, until Izzi is calm around that person, and then add the owner's dog also the next time.
That way you are tackling only one new thing at a time. We adopted Basil a couple of months ago from our neighbor who was fostering Basil and her litter mates. She gets along great with our male neutered dog that is around 13 months, named Baymax. When I try to do training with her I put Baymax on the porch so they don't distract each other. The problem is that when I put him outside, Basil is constantly losing focus to go look for Baymax. How can I get her to focus on the training instead of looking for Baymax?
Hello Joshua, Normally when you train a dog you start with an easy, non-distracting environment like you are doing, and once the dog understands the command, then you move onto an environment that contains mild distractions, and you gradually increase the dog's skill level overtime by practicing around harder and harder distractions as he improves. Because Basil is so fixated on Baymax, training her in an environment where Baymax usually is present is actually more distracting for her, so I would recommend taking her somewhere calm where does not usually see Baymax and start the training there.
Once she understands what the command means and can do it reliably in the environment where you first taught it to her, then use your home as the more distracting environment to practice it in in order to increase her skill level with that command. For example, if she and Baymax never go into your basement, your front yard, or your neighborhood cul-de-sac, then teach her new commands in those environments first before you work on the training in her normal home environment. How do I get her to calm down and greet dogs nicely? Hello Alice, It sounds like Nala likes other dogs and wants to meet but lacks experience playing and reading doggie social cues, which makes it hard for her to interact.
I would recommend finding other puppies that she can play with in a safely enclosed area, off leash, under owner supervision. Puppies learn how to control their bites, how to adjust their play style, and how to read canine body language from one another. Puppies also interact with one another differently than adult dogs do, so puppy interaction is what she needs most right now. See if any of your friends have any puppies under six months of age and get them together to play.
Whenever the puppies start to get too rough or one puppy begins to look like she is not having fun, then interrupt their play, let them calm down, and then let the shy puppy go and see if she initiates the play again. If she does, then let them play again. Many pet stores or training facilities offer puppy social times, including Petco. Look online or call around and see if you can find one to attend. Many are free or inexpensive. Most of those classes cut off the attendance age at six months though, so do not wait. Occasionally one location will allow you to continue coming if your dog started coming before the age of six months though.
When walking my dog she only becomes aggressive to other dogs on leash when they become aggressive first. I'm afraid she will learn their bad behavior. I basically try to redirect her with the leave it command while pulling her along with me until we are far enough away that she stops. Is their anything else I can do? Hello Donna, You can preempt a bad encounter with another dog by saying something to Zoey in an upbeat, confident, and cheerful tone of voice whenever you walk past another dog before that dog has a chance to react toward her.
When you spot the other dog say something like "Yay! Keep moving while you do this and give her several treats, one treat at a time, until the dog is past you. This will teach her to look at you in expectation of a reward whenever Zoey passes by another dog and it will also help her to like the appearance of other dogs, even when they are acting mean toward her.
Since she is small, if you find it easier to do, you can also create a treat stick that is long enough to reach her when you lower it down to her, and rub some Peanut Butter or treat paste on it for her to lick off while you are walking by the other dog and talking happily to her.
The last encounter the other fog was very aggressive unleashed and biting my dog. I was able to step in and pick him up. Now we are both apprehensive around all fogs, what can I do? Being in the same room and ignoring each other is actually wonderful because that means that they are comfortable enough with one another to just hang out, and we want Bowie to feel relaxed around other dogs again. Do this with as many different trustworthy dogs as possible. Also avoid up close interactions with dogs that are being rude and reactive towards your dog. Always advocate for your dog.
You do not have to let him meet another dog if that dog is on a leash with it's owner if you do not trust the other dogs. Do not be afraid to politely tell the other owner that you are "Training Bowie to be calm around other dogs, so cannot meet", or that "Your dog is frightened of other dogs, so cannot meet". Unfortunately off-leash dogs are out of your control, if off-leash dogs continue to be a problem then I would recommend talking to the other if you know where it lives, or reporting it to animal control if needed, or carrying pepper spray or another type of save deterrent if the other dogs are aggressive.
While avoiding untrustworthy dogs, seek out friendly ones that you know and go on walks together, side by side, using one of the methods in the article link that I have included above. Reward your dog with lots of treats for calm, brave behavior as you get closer and closer to the other dog. Lots of positive experiences with other dogs should build both you and your dog's confidence, and help you both feel more relaxed around other dogs.
You want your Bowie to feel like aggressive dogs are the exception and not the norm. Hello Alyssa, To teach Kira to stop jumping, first teach her to Sit. Whenever you greet her tell her to "Sit" before you pet her. If she sits, then give her a treat by holding it underneath her chin. If she does not sit and instead jumps up, then step toward her to throw her off balance, and wait until she sits before you give her attention. Practice this until she knows to sit when you greet her. Once she can sit for you and no longer jumps on you, then recruit various people to practice it with her, until she no longer jumps on other people also.
If she continues to jump up after she knows what she should be doing despite being rewarded for sitting, then check out Jeff Gelhman from SolidK9Training's YouTube channel. He has a jumping protocol for high intensity dogs, where he demonstrates on video how to stop the jumping and shows you how to properly fit a prong collar. If you choose to use that protocol, make sure that you start by teaching her to sit when someone greets her and you reward her for doing the proper behavior, rather than only correcting the jumping.
The training works best when you combine correcting the jumping and rewarding the correct, sitting behavior. I would need to know more about the chasing behavior in order to help you with that. What is her body language when she is around other dogs? Have she been in a fight with another dog before?
Does she simply seem excited? Is it one particular type of dog, like only small dogs, that she is trying to chase? Without knowing more I cannot address the root issue, such as fear or aggression or frustration, but practicing her obedience, including a very strict, focused "Heel", until she can respond to you around distractions will generally help. She likely needs to learn better respect toward you because if she respected you more she would look to you to solve the issue for her more, but there also might be other things, like aggression or fear reactivity going on.
To help her learn to respect you better and to develop her general obedience check out this Wag! You can choose to utilize more than one, but if you choose to only implement one method, use the "Obedience" method for her. Jeff Gelhman from SolidK9 Training also has several videos that address respect issues, as well as dog aggression issues if that seems to be why she is going after other dogs.
If you will submit a new questions with more details about her chasing behavior I would be glad to address that even further. Im having trouble calming Luna down. She is super friendly and has lots of energy and seems a bit skittish of larger dogs. My problem is that everytime she sees dogs or humans se get over the top excited and wants to run over to them. She barks and "cries". Even if she see's them from the window.
She will try and jump on humans to get attention. One time she ran after some kids who were playing and i couldn't get a hold of her. She just wont listen when i call her, and not even treats will help her get back. The only thing that works is if i run away from her. Its becoming a big issue as i cant take her of the leash in case she see's someone walking past. How can i correct this behaviour? Hello Hannah, First, work on taking Luna with you to lots of different places to help her get used to seeing dogs and people.
Start with the people and the dogs being far away, and as she improves, gradually get closer to the distractions. If she does not "Sit" when you tell her to, and you are confident that she knows the word, then gently press your fingers down and in on either side of the base of her tail while you lift up on her chin at the same time.
Do this to encourage her into the sit position and to teach her that "Sit" is not optional. When she sits, then give her a treat even though you had to help her do it. When she can consistently do it without your help, then only give her a treat if she does it willingly. If she will not lay down, then clip her leash onto her collar or harness in the front of her and pull down on the leash just enough to make standing very uncomfortable.
Hold it like that until she becomes so uncomfortable standing that she lays down to avoid the pressure. This might take as long as fifteen minutes the first time, so be patient. With both "Sit" and "Down" you are not forcing her into the position, instead you are making her disobedience very uncomfortable for her so that she will choose to obey.
As soon as she obeys, stop the discomfort and give her a reward. That reward can be a treat, praise, being allowed to go see something that she wants to check out, or anything else that she wants to do that is acceptable. Also, practice "Come" by attaching a forty foot leash to her and practicing telling her to "Come" in distracting locations. When she does not "Come", then reel her in with the long leash, tell her to "Sit", and then release her again by telling her "Okay" or "Free".
Repeat "Come" and "Okay" several times in a row until she comes willingly and receives a reward for it. Try to end each training session on a positive note, with her coming and receiving a reward. Also, try not to call her to yourself when you want to do something unpleasant to her or she is in trouble.
Instead, teach her a different command like "Inside" and practice that command on the long leash. If she is bolting away from you, then she should not be off leash in an unconfined area or possibly even in a confined area right now. It is not only unsafe, but until she improves, it will only encourage her to ignore your commands even more because you cannot enforce what you are telling her to do. Work with a light-weight, forty to fifty foot leash with her until she will always obey you, before you move onto off-leash.
In general Luna would benefit from attending an Intermediate Obedience class. It sounds like she knows what various commands mean, which is the point of a Basic Obedience class, but she needs to learn how to do those commands around distractions too, which is what Intermediate Obedience is all about. Look for a trainer who uses both Positive Reinforcement and a little bit of discipline, but who is not overly harsh or in anyway physically abusive. Even if your trainer uses treats, he should have other methods of training also. Hi, My dog is very anxious and sometimes acts aggressively around other dogs.
He is not aggressive towards people but is not overly friendly either. He will go say a quick hello but then back off. With dogs he will sniff and then react with an aggressive snarl. On walks he usually ignores the dog unless they stare or react to him which then he goes crazy on the leash. My vet has told me that it is fear aggression and anxiety due to lack of socialization. We have recently restarted him on training with other dogs but we are wondering if it would be good to get him a dog walker where he can walk in a pack? We really want to bring another dog into our home but we want to make sure Ace is ok with other dogs before we attempt to do this.
Any help would be great. Hello Jamie, Pack walks can be really wonderful if the person in charge, the walker, is able to command all of the dog's respect, if the walker is the one leading so there is less competition between the dogs, and if the initial introduction is done right. Essentially whether it's a good idea will depend on the quality of the walker and if that person has training experience. If the dogs are competing to be in front, bullying one another, getting each other excited, or being rude and trying to pull the walker then that could cause more stress for Ace.
You might want to see if there are any Meetup groups in your area with other dog walkers who regularly go walking together and start by joining that group to ease him into being a part of a pack. When you go look to see if the other dogs are good influences for him and calm or reactive and not good socialization prospects. You want him around dogs that are in a calmer mindset right now.
If you can find a walker who is also a qualified trainer or the equivalent and he or she is able to lead the dogs properly, then a pack walk could be good. A third option is to see if you have any friends who like to walk with their well behaved dogs and join them. Start with more space between the dogs, reward your dog for acting calmly around the other dogs and for looking at you and looking at the dogs and reacting correctly.
A small ziplock bag of treats in your pocket works well for this. As your dog begins to ignore the other dogs more, gradually decrease the space between you and your friends or Meetup group until your dog can walk as a member of the pack by yourside close to the other dogs. Teach your dog a structured heel and make sure he is following you and not in front of you while you walk, this will help him look to you for directions and depend on you to handle stressful situations and be less reactive and defensive himself. Working on his respect for you should help with some of his fear when you are with him.
If he respects and trusts you, he is more likely to let you handle situations and not act defensive and aggressive. Check out the article that I have linked below on how to build trust.
The Dog Training Secret
Using a bit of all of the methods would be good but focus specifically on the "Obedience" method from that article. The "Walk Together" method is most similar to what I have described. If he is struggling with even looking at the other dog, then start with the "Passing Approach" method and then switch to the "Walking Together" method once he is more relaxed.
I just got rosko a couple days ago. He's very excited around our other dogs and our other dogs don't like him in their personal space. How do I keep him calm around them and get them to like him more. Hello Keegan, First teach Rosko the "Out" command. Whenever he is bothering the older dogs, tell him "Out" and reward him with one of his toys or a treat when he obeys. If he does not obey, then go over to him and stand between him and the dog that he is bothering and block him from getting to the other dog while you walk toward him to get him out of that space. Your attitude should be firm, strong, and calm while you do this.
Doing this with your body communicates to him where he should be spatially. If he gets too wound up to listen, which is common for puppies, then make sure that he has a calm location by himself, like a crate, gated off room, or Exercise Pen, where you can place him with a chew-toy until he calms down. Expect it to take time and consistency for him to learn to leave the older dogs alone. Very few puppies learn this right away but it should help their relationship with time.
To help the other dogs like him, feed them treats whenever they are being tolerant of his presence or he comes into the room with them or he gets something. As soon as he leaves, ignore them and stop feeding them treats, so that they will associate the rewards with his presence and want him around.
Also create rules and boundaries for all of the dogs in your house, and work on each dog's respect for you. In a household with multiple dogs, it is especially important for you to be the one who decides what the rules are and be the one to enforce them, and not your dogs. An example of a rule is: a dog is not allowed to tell another dog that he cannot enter into a room or play with an unattended toy. If a dog is trying to control another dog's actions or movements then that dog is trying to make a rule for the other dog.
Only you decide what the dogs can and cannot do and where they cannot be. Be sure to create rules that are respectful of each dog's space though. If a dog disobeys a rule, then there should be a fair consequence, like leaving the room or getting off of the couch. Here is a good article for teaching respect if you feel like it could be improved.
For years, storm was so good meeting other dogs, was very calm and gentle and submissive. But as she got into her 3rd and now 4th year, she started showing signs of leash aggression, and then growling, when too excited to meet another dog on leash and would pull violently and began growling and barking.
But not to every dog, only some. I have her on a slip lead but I feel like when I pull and I pull on her neck she gets worse. Hello Elena, It does sound like leash reactivity, opposed to general aggression. Leash reactivity typically happens when a dog feels frustrated because he wants to greet other dogs and can't or because his owner wrongly corrects him and makes the appearance of other dogs unpleasant for him.
In both cases she needs to learn to re-associate the appearance of other dogs with pleasant things. To do this, go somewhere where there are other dogs at a distance. The parking lot of a dog park or a regular park is a good place to find other dogs without getting too close. An even better option is to have a friend with a calm dog walk her dog at a distance from your dog while you work with Storm. Stay far enough away from the other dog for Storm to notice the dog but still respond to you. This might be pretty far at first.
Every time that she looks at the other dog praise her and reward her with a wonderful, small treat before she has the chance to react negatively. Also, reward her every time that she looks at the dog and then looks back at you for direction, or looks at you instead of the dog, or generally remains calm around the other dog.
If she starts to act aggressive, then interrupt her right when she starts to tense up and begins to react. Don't wait until it is full blown if you can catch it early. Interrupt her by telling her to "Heel" and then quickly moving around with her in the heel position. Make the "Heel" almost drill-like. Walk fast, change your speed often, make a lot of turns at ninety-degree angles, including right in front of her.
The idea to make her focus on heeling so much that she cannot think about anything else. Don't worry about the leash catching her. She can control whether or not that happens by paying attention to you. When she is calmed back down, then go back to working on rewarding her for being calm around the other dog. The heeling exercise should also help build her respect for you in a less confrontational way. Switch from using a slip lead to using either a martingale collar, a pinch collar, or a front clip no-pull harness.
Choke type collars can damage a dog's trachea. If you choose to use a pinch collar, then spend time learning about how to properly fit and use one. A pinch should fit high on the neck, tight enough for the prongs to gently touch the dog's neck without pushing into the skin at all between corrections. Pinch collars when used properly should require very little force during a normal correction. If you cannot correct your dog with two fingers, then you might have an issue with your fit. You do not want a pinch to be loose or you will have to give a much harder correction and the metal banging against your dogs neck can hurt her neck.
Be careful using a prong collar. Corrections can be good for interrupting bad behaviors but if you correct too often, with poor timing, or without clear communication, then you can actually make the issue worse. The point of a correction is to stop an unwanted behavior long enough for you to have the opportunity to show your dog what to do instead and reward your dog for performing the correct behavior. In the end the dog needs to be learning what to do, not be punished for doing the wrong thing.
If your dog does not know what to do, then she will continually be punished for doing the wrong thing, which causes her to dislike training, distrust you, and become frustrated. Dogs need to be told when something is not correct AND when it is correct. Also, when Storm can handle being within thirty feet of another dog, then recruit friends with calm, friendly dogs, to go on pack walks with you. Have the other dog walk past Storm on the opposite sidewalk over and over again. Reward Storm for responding calmly, heeling, and paying attention to you as you do this.
When Storm is doing well, then gradually decrease the distance between the dogs overtime, until you can walk them together with you and the other dog's owner. Check out this article for better details on how to do that. First, follow the "Passing Approach" method", then switch to the "Walking Together" method when the dogs are able to get close enough.
When my dog sees other dogs, he pulls as hard as he can and tries to get to the other dog. He does this wherever: walks, parks, other's homes. We took him to a group obedience class and the whole time, he was whining as loud as possible, pulling, and barking. The class lasted and hour and that was all he did. The other dogs were completely fine. They barked only twice and never whined. It was so embarrassing. After the class, the trainer told us we might need private classes. I have never been so mortified. I need my dog to be calm around other dogs and not pull. What do I do?
Hello Michelle, When your dog is reactive towards other dogs it can feel very embarrassing. Please know that you are not alone though. I work with a lot of clients in person who have reactive dogs, and everyone feels embarrassed about their dog's behavior, especially when they are around calmer dogs. It's a very common problem. The first thing I would suggest is to take that trainer up on their suggestion of a private session, if that is an option for you.
You may want to find a different trainer though, who will not make you feel embarrassed. I suggest Private training, not because you cannot solve it on your own, but simply because it will be significantly easier to work on those types of issues if you have some experienced helping you. If you choose to find someone to help you, I would suggest looking for someone with experience in dealing with aggressive and reactive dogs. Not because I think that your dog is aggressive, but because someone with that type of experience will probably be skilled enough to help you get the best results.
Some trainers who only teach classes are less experienced than what you need, since they deal less with behavior problem and more with teaching obedience skills. With that said, there are a couple of things that you can do on your own also. First, work on teaching your dog general obedience, such as a structured Heel, like the focused type that you would see a police dog doing. Teach a long Down Stay, a Sit Stay, Attention, how to stay in Place for a long time, and any other obedience skills that you would like to teach, that require your dog to exert self-control or to focus on you.
After your dog learns those commands, have him practice them to learn things form you through the day, such as sitting to earn his dinner, laying down before being petted, heeling to get to progress in his walk, paying attention before you take him outside. Teaching these commands will not only help you communicate with your dog when he is reacting to another dog, but even more importantly, it will build respect. He needs to build respect toward you. He is likely reacting to other dogs for some other reason, but the more he respects you, the more he will allow you to handle the interactions with the other dogs, and will follow your leadership and instruction.
He is probably reacting for a couple of reasons. The first is excitement, the second is a lack of socialization. This is assuming that he has never shown any real aggression towards other dogs. I am guessing that he has not based on your description. Other dogs are probably exciting to him, but he may not have ever learned proper canine manners. When puppies interact with other dogs while growing up, in an ideal setting the other dogs will give the puppy feedback and teach him how he should act, and what is not acceptable. The puppy learns to control himself, and to be polite.
In the wrong circumstances a puppy can learn the wrong things, such as how to bully, or if not around enough other social dogs and puppies while growing up, he may not learn how to behave around dogs at all. Most people with reactive dogs have this problem. If your puppy has never been around many other well socialized dogs, and not all dogs will properly teach this, then other dogs are also extremely exciting.
If he is reactive because he never learned proper manners around other dogs while young, then it will be important to bring him around other dogs and make the presence of other dogs boring. To do this, go somewhere with other dogs, but stay far enough away from the dogs for your dog to remain relatively calm still.
Work on having your dog do things for you while in the presence of those other dogs. Things such as a structured heel, a long Down Stay, Come, Sit, Attention, or a game of Fetch that is structured, meaning that your dog must Sit, bring the ball to you, drop the ball for you, and focus on you. When your dog looks at the other dogs and then looks back at you, praise him and offer him a treat.
It is OK to discipline your dog in a fair way to interrupt poor behavior, but the goal should be to reward your dog for being calm, and to teach him an acceptable way to behave after you interrupt his bad behavior. Discipline does not have to be physically painful, the best discipline is simply something that your dog considers unpleasant, that interrupts his behavior long enough for him to be open to being shown what to do instead. Some dogs consider the word "No" alone to be discipline, others consider turning and walking away from something they want to go see discipline. Think of it like telling your dog "Don't do that" then "Do this instead".
Lastly, if you have friends with calm dogs who will help you. Then work on teaching your dog how to approach other dogs calmly. To do this, have your friend go somewhere, such as the middle of a park, and stand still with their dog. Let your dog see them from a distance. If your dog remains calm, walk past them at that distance. Reward your dog for looking at you and for remaining calm.
If your dog barks, stand in front of him and block his view until he stops, or turn around and walk in the opposite direction. When he is calm again reward him by moving closer again. Practice this until you can walk right past them. Expect this to take time and work. The idea is to get gradually closer, to reward your dog every time that he is calm or paying attention to you, and to stop or walk away whenever he reacts badly. This is to teach him that the way to get to where he wants, where the other dog is, is to act respectful and calm.
When he can walk all the way up to the other dog calmly, then have the two dogs walk side by side for a while. After that you can let them stop and sniff for three seconds, before continuing your walk. The reason the interaction while standing is short is to prevent the chance of a dog fight if your dog acts rudely, and to keep your dog calm, so that your dog will learn that other dogs are boring.
We have a lot of trouble with Jimmy in the car. He is happy to get in but when we are driving he drools and licks the upholstery and doors. As he is happy to get in we don't think he's scared, but somehow overwrought about it all. We have tried rewards when he sits still etc but he seems to be getting worse not better. Hello Crissi, It sounds like Jimmy is nervous. He is not necessarily afraid but more excitedly nervous. Your goal should be to make car trips as boring as possible. He also needs to lay down when you are moving because the drooling is a possible sign of nauseousness, which can be brought on by nervousness.
Laying down will also make the trip calmer and more boring for him. Do not skip the laying down part. First, have him get into the car while it is turned off at home and practice a Down-Stay. The closer to the floor he rides the better, but he may not be able to fit on your floorboards, so the middle row of your seats or your seats folded down will also work. Practice the down-Stay with moderately exciting treats, not super exciting ones. Do this for a few minutes everyday to desensitize him to being in the car as well as teach him to lay down. After a week or so of doing that, if he seems relaxed while in the car while it is off, then move onto turning the car on and practice the Down-Stay with the car on.
After that, recruit an assistant to drive. Sit with Jimmy and enforce his Down-Stay while your assistant drives around the block. Practice this until he seems calmer while riding in the car. When he can ride in the car calmly, then take him to further locations where he does not get out of the car or only gets out briefly.
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Good places to take him are the pharmacy, grocery store, or post office when two people are going and one person can sit in the car with him while it is running while the other person goes in the store. You can also just take him for a drive to nowhere in particular. When you are by yourself, purchase a back-clip harness made for car riding, or at least padded, and a seat belt tether and tether him so that he is comfortably laying down and cannot move.
By this point he should know to lay down during rides, but you want the harness to enforce it so that you do not have to when you are by yourself and focusing on the road. When he can handle normal trips around town without acting nervous, then continue to take him with you to boring places when you can, but you can go back to bringing him with you to more exciting places also. If he was previously only going to places he disliked, like the Vet or groomers, then his issue likely is fear and he needs to go to more pleasant places, in addition to the boring locations at first. We rescued Riggs a year ago and he is, for the most part, a wonderful dog.
He loves people, he maybe gets a little too excited when someone new enters the house but no one seems to mind. Where we have difficulty is his behavior towards other dogs.
When we first got him he got very excited when he seen any other dog. Sometimes he seemed playful, other times he seemed aggressive. When we walk him, we have sort of trained him to look at us whenever he sees a dog and he gets a treat. This works most of the time in the park mostly.
Problems arise when he sees big dogs or dogs running or even dogs with big wagging tails. On a narrow road e. When this happens it's difficult to get his focus back on me. The best we can do is walk away from the other dog s. But what about the times when we are not walking or when there is nowhere else to go but straight past the dog? There are times when my other half and I have stopped at a cafe outside and had Riggs with us. Whenever another dog either walks past or comes to the cafe Riggs barks like crazy and nothing I can do gets his attention back on me.
This has resulted in us having to leave the cafe and often causes a big scene as his bark is so loud for such a little dog. It's the same in our garden whenever someone walks past the fence, with or without a dog. Or, worst of all: when he's in the car and sees a dog.
He goes absolutely crazy in the car and remains that way even if the dog is 2 miles away. We try using the same technique that appears to work on his walks, which is: he sees a dog, straight away while calm I praise him and give him a treat. When we are in a cafe or even the garden, he seems to go deaf and ignores me completely. Any advice? Hello Ciaran, It sounds like Riggs would benefit from attending a G. This class gets these dogs together while they are wearing muzzles and works on socializing them and working through their dog issues quickly under the leadership of a qualified trainer.
If you can find one in your area I would highly recommend attending one with him. If there is not a G. A place where they can either have Riggs wear a muzzle or let him see other dogs through a glass or fencing and rapidly address his responses around other dogs, correcting his outbursts and disrespect toward the person he is with and creating a positive association around other dogs when he is calm. Look for a trainer who utilizes both fair corrections and positive reinforcement because he will need both for his behavior problem.
In addition to dealing with his frustration around other dogs, Riggs needs to learn more respect and trust for you. He needs to let you lead in situations involving other dogs and not take control himself. The final option that may work but will take more time is to hire a trainer to come to your home and do one-on-one socialization sessions with Riggs and another dog while Riggs is on a leash and wearing a muzzle.
The reason for the muzzle is Riggs needs to be able to get close to another dog at some point to effectively deal with the aggression. The muzzle will allow him to get close without risking harm to another dog, and it will allow you to reward or correct his response to the other dog. You will want a soft silicone basket muzzle for this. A basket muzzle will have holes that are large enough to pass treats through and it will allow him to open his mouth inside the muzzle.
You can go ahead and get him used to wearing a muzzle by feeding him his dinner or breakfast and treats, one piece at a time while he interacts with the muzzle. Show him the muzzle and give him a treat whenever he sniffs it or touches it. Touch the muzzle to him and give him a treat. Place the muzzle on him and give him a treat. Hold the muzzle on his face for longer and give him two treats, a few seconds apart.
Finally, put the muzzle on him completely and feed him treats through the muzzle's holes while he wears it and then take it off again. Do this gradually over a couple of weeks. When he can wear the muzzle and seems happy and comfortable while it is on, then he is ready to wear it for training. Aggression and reactivity are difficult behaviors to tackle on your own. When you search for a trainer look for one with experience and success dealing with reactivity and aggression. Not all trainers are educated and experienced in it. You will need an environment with a lot of other dogs present to train in.
You will also need someone your dog seems to trust and seems to respect. If you can find a G. Riley is pretty uneasy around males and dogs and will bark and snap at them. I'm in a fairly sociable apartment and need to train her to be a little more social. Hello Myles, Check out the video linked below by Jeff Gellman, who specializes in aggression and reactive dogs. Here he demonstrated safety measures a back tie , when to have people reward a dog during calmness and not during aggressive displays , and how to appropriately use punishment when treating aggression with good timing, calmness, and in combination with positive reinforcement for calm behavior and with the appropriate safety measures for your guests.
I suggest working with a trainer who is extensively experienced with aggression and works with several other male trainers so that the various men can practice the training with him as well. Work on building his confidence in general. Practice obedience commands in a calm way, especially structured commands like heel, stay, watch me, sit, and down. Practice boundaries around the house, like respecting your space while going through doors, following you in a heel during a walk and not being past your leg or pulling , and commands like off and other basic house hold manners things.
You can also build confidence through things like agility courses, where he has to overcome obstacles and teaching him new things often. For the dogs, look to see if there is a G. That class is for dogs who are reactive or aggressive toward other dogs. All the dogs wear muzzle's in the class for safely and are socialized together and worked through their fears in the class with the help of their owners and the trainer.
You can get him used to wearing a soft silicone basket muzzle ahead of time so that that part is not stressful. At mealtimes use his kibble in a bag measured out not reaching into his bowl. First, sprinkle it around the muzzle until he is comfortable with it.
Next, give him a piece of food every time that he touches the muzzle while you are holding it. When he is comfortable with that, hold the muzzle up and hold pieces of treats inside the muzzle through the holes so that he has to poke his head inside a bit to get the food. Practice until he is comfortable with that. Work up to him putting his head further and further into the muzzle to get treats and up to him holding his face in the muzzle for longer and longer while being given treats through the holes. Once he is comfortable having his face in the muzzle for several seconds, buckle the muzzle, feed him several treats, then take it off again.
Gradually work up to him wearing it for longer and longer and eventually spacing the treats further and further apart until he is relaxed while wearing it around. Expect this to take at least a couple of weeks. Go slowly enough that he has time to get used to the current level of interaction with the muzzle before you move onto the next part. She gets out of control when seeing other dogs. Is absolutely wonderful with people. Hello Lynn, If Halia does well with dogs while off-leash, then the aggression might be due to frustration on the leash and working on focus on you, rewarding her for attention and obedience, and decreasing the stress should help.
If she does not do well with dogs up close either, then she is likely aggressive due to either dominance, fear, or a lack of socialization, which is similar to fear. Since she screeches it is probably fear or socialization related. If you can find one in your area, I would highly recommend attending a G. Class and your city you may be able to find such a class in your city. If you cannot find the class or would prefer one on one training, then I would recommend hiring a professional trainer to help you. Look for someone who has access to a training facility with several friendly dogs on property where the trainer can get Halia around a lot of other dogs and work on her fear and her response in a quicker amount of time than you could in your neighborhood.
Teach her a command like "Watch Me" that means look at me. Work on heavily rewarding her for obeying that command. When you start to approach another dog, give her that command and reward her for focusing on you. Also reward her for normally looking at you when another dog is present even if you have not told her to.
Reward her for looking at the dog and staying calm, looking at the dog and then back at you, and generally being calm. You want to make the presence of another dog pleasant for her and also encourage focus on you instead of that dog. Go to places with a lot of space, like the park, where you can control how far she is from other dogs and train where she is close enough to notice the other dogs but far enough away to still look at you for treats and stay a bit calm with your help. All of this will go much faster if you attend a G.
Getting her around other friendly, polite dogs while she is wearing a silicone muzzle can also help if you have a trainer there to show you how to train her responses to the other dog. If it is done wrong if may lead to worse problems though, so do that under the supervision of a trainer. I have a handsome, playful and intelligent pup named Scout. I rescued him a little over a month ago. He is very calm and well mannered and extremely blessed to see that in a puppy.
He comes to work with me daily and has been socializing with the other dogs at work. The first few weeks I kept him on leash and trained with positive reinforcement that he needs to be calm while I am working at my desk or styling on set I work in the photo studio as a stylist. He will always end up back in his bed and remains calm. He has a routine right before work he will get out of the car and play with another dog.
This other dog typically plays fetch with its owner and Scout loves running with her. However he is recently displaying odd behavior and I would love your input on the following - 1. As he is a puppy, he does have his spurts of excitement and will bark at other dogs when he wants to play. Similar to the above, there is one dog in particular in the studio that he seems to play bark at often.
I have tried to redirect him and let him approach in a more calm manner but i know I definitely need to be more consistent with that training. However, now Scout has been showing signs of jealousy. He has a bone and if the other dog takes it, he will go up to him and bark at him wanting it. But then he also wants the other dogs bone as well. I want him to learn how to share. On our walks he is always distracted by other dogs. If one approaches our way, he does well with the greet. I would love for him, again, to always be calm when greeting dogs no matter the situation.
The latter of the above in dog distraction is when he sees a dog in a distance he will stop and stare. He does that when he sees other people in a distance. He did whimper once. Any input here would be extremely appreciated!! Thank you in advance! Hello Amanda, It sounds like you are doing a great job with Scout so far. Scout is five months old which means he is transitioning out of being a baby puppy and into being a teenager essentially.
With that transition comes more energy, more boldness, willfulness, and independence, and more dominant behaviors as he tries to figure out who is in charge in each social interaction. They are all developmental and hormonal related changes. My first bit of advice is try not to get discouraged when you see new behavior issues crop up. He will need training to get through them but they are normal at this age. Also be patient, training him might be a bit harder and take more patience during this phase. You may not feel like you are seeing results right away as much as when he was a puppy.
Stay the course, keep training and that will improve as he matures more during the next six months. Now, as far as the specific issues. The barking is excitement and frustration related. Essentially he wants to play but when another dog won't, he gets frustrated and tries different things to coerce the other dog into playing. He hasn't learned all about canine manners yet because of his age and experience.
1. Don't make towering reading goals.
He needs more opportunities to practice his obedience exercises with other dogs in the background, without playing with the other dogs. Playing with other dogs is good for learning bite inhibition and certain social interactions, especially puppies, but if that is the majority of his interactions with dogs as he gets older it can lead to reactivity and over-excitement around other dogs.
Make sure that you balance play with structured obedience around other dogs. Go places like outside dog parks and practice your training in the grass where he cannot get to the other dogs but can still see them. Work at a distance that is a little distracting but not so stimulating that he cannot focus back on you. Work him fast so that he does not have time to look around if he is struggling to focus. An example of this would be doing heeling exercises where you walk fast and turn at ninety degree angles quickly and often so that he really has to pay attention to you, or giving him a series of commands one after another and rewarding him after he does a few different things in a row.
When he is more focused back on you, then you can work on harder stationary exercises like watching you and stay. Joining a class like a Canine Good Citizen class would probably benefit him, then he could be around a lot of other dogs while working on obedience but practice ignoring them rather than playing. When you do let him play with another dog give him a command like "Sit" first and wait until he obeys.
When he obeys, then give him a command like "Go Play" and let him go play. Do this whenever you want him to greet another dog so that he also learns that he can only play if given permission. Also periodically call the dogs away from one another and reward them for coming. Keep them on long leashes dragging on the ground at first if they will not come when you call. Go grab the end of the leash and reel him in if he does not come. Once he comes, have him sit, reward him, and then let him play again. You want him to learn better self-control during play and to convince him that the quickest way to keep doing what he wants is to obey you really quickly.
Focus most on obedience around other dogs opposed to play though. True stories. A great number of posters shared their stories on how their dogs protected their homes against burglars. Proof 5. Video recordings. There is a video that records how well-trained or untrained dogs protected their little owners. You can view the below circumstances to see when your dogs can protect you and act as a useful burglary deterrent.
Some burglars would avoid homes with dogs since barking dogs would draw attention. For example, if you were robbed by a bad guy, the sign of your dog protecting you is that it will bite or attack the bad guy at once, instead of hiding itself. Have you ever come across any events that well-trained or untrained Rottweiler dogs protect its owner? Did you have any videos that your friendly dog tried its best to protect your home? Has your Husky ever protected you? You can share your stories in the comment below!
It would be generally accepted for you that having a dog could prevent burglaries, and reduce your chances of being victimized. Fact 1. Intruders or burglars would take down your dog pretty easily with just a piece of tranquilizer-drugged meat. Well, you may hold against my opinion with this point that trained dogs would refuse any food from strangers. But is it the truth? According to some tests, even trained guard dogs fail this distraction — the delicious, big and drugged meat.
In some extreme cases, the dogs would be even killed by the intruders. In a tragic story from Orlando , a two-year-old Boxer was stabbed by a burglar during a break-in. Fact 2. Real tests. The staff tested 5 protection dogs. All of the dogs failed to stop the intruders from breaking into homes and houses. Some of the dogs even played with the intruders. You can check the video below to see the details. So what would your dog do if someone broke in? The fact would be that your baby pet would just play games and have fun with the intruders, like you see in the video above.
Fact 3. Thus, you could not just only rely on your dog to protect your home from intruders. Dogs could only deter some of crimes. Check your best solution to secure your home from break-ins in the Part 3. Just a piece of tranquilizer-drugged meat is enough as mentioned above. And the tranquilizer is very easy to get. As you may know, it only takes several minutes for a thief to grab some precious and easy-to-take properties, such as cash, jewelry, etc.
Even if your dog keeps barking at the intruder, the thief would be able to keep your dog calm long enough to grad your valuables.
Bump : You can learn some helpful tips on securing your cash, jewelry and other valuables here. Thus your dog is totally useless on protecting your home while you are away or on vacation. You cannot put all the eggs into one blanket, so does your home security. From the convicted burglars and thieves, the presence of a home security camera ranks top among all of the theft deterrents, including a barking dog.
And if a home break-in happens, your security camera can record the face of the thieves clearly. The police can help you catch the bad guy more easily with such evidences. You can get more details on the effectiveness of security cameras here. In some cases, the thieves would attack your dogs. With security cameras, you can see who hurt your baby pet, and then send the videos to the police for their investigation. A tragedy happened recently that a dog got hit by a car.
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The driver just ran away without doing anything. Luckily, a security camera has recorded all the events. You can watch the video below. A lot of OPs left many questions on forums and communities, asking whether their dogs can protect their home and defend owners from intruders. If you have other questions or any stories you wanna share, please leave them in the comment below.
If you want to know whether your untrained dog will defend you if you are attacked, or if you want to know what kinds of dogs are the most suitable crime deterrent, etc. Will dogs instinctively protect their owners?